Method of manufacturing boots and shoes



May 1, 1928. r v 1,667,781

A. E. C. HALL METHOD OF MANUFACTURING BOOTS AND SHOES Filed Auz. 9, 1922 Fig. 1.

Patented May 1, 1928 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE. 1

ALFRED E. C. HALL, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO 1 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATEBSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

METHOD OF MANUFACTURING I BOOT S AND. SHOES.

Application filed August 9, 1922. Serial No. 580,670.

This invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes, and is herein described in connection with the manufacture of a childs molded counter turned shoe having an underwedge and a nailed seat.

In the manufacture of shoes of this, type it is customary to prepare a bottom member consisting of a molded and channeledsolehaving attached to the heel "end thereof an underwedge, the underwedge having in its forward edge a notch or other recess located in register with one end of the channel, and adapted to receive the channel guide of the sewing machine which is used to attach thesole to the upper, the purpose of thus allowin-g the channel guide to run into the underwedge being to ensure that the end of the seam. last formed shall extend close to the edge of the underwedge. In preparing the bottom member, it has been customary to die out or round the soles and underwedges separately; and, because of this procedure, it has been difiicult to obtain uniformly accurate alinement or register of the edges of the sole and underwedge.

According to the present invention the sole blank and the underwedge blank are clamped in proper relation to each other and rounded simultaneously." \Vhen the parts have been cut in this manner. their edges are in exact register and no subsequent trimming after the parts have been fastened to ether is necessary. I I i n manufacturin the combined sole and underwedge it has been customary to cut in the forward straight edge of the underwedge at the same time that the wedge is died out the notch, which has been referred to above. The straight edge must thereafter be skived or beveled; and this notch has tended to make the result of the skiving o er'ation uneven adjacent to the locality of t e notch.

According to the present invention the notch or other suitable recess is formed after the underwedge has been skived and preferably after it has been attached to the sole. As described, a notch is made by a pinking cutter, the sole being utilized as a cutting bed.

Referring now to the. accompanying drawings,

Figure 1 is an elevation of a portion of a sole rounding machine which may be used in carrying out one step of the method,

Fig. 2 IS a perspectiveof a patternto which the sole blank and underwedge blank beencemented to it, and the notch having been cut, and

Fig. 8 is a perspective showing how the channel guide of the sewing machine travelsinto the notch.

The rounding machine a portion of which is shown in Fig. 1 is or maybe substantially the same as the machine shown and de scribed in the patent to Mayo No. 882,009 (March 17, 1908) except that a special pattern is used. The machine will notbe described further than to explain that the work i is clamped to a pattern 9 and while =so-held is cut or rounded by a knife 11 which is caused to travel around the edge of the pattern. Roundingmachin'es have been in ex tensive use for many ears, and any suitable machine maybe employed.

Ordinarily, the pattern is of a uniiorm thickness throughout; but in the present case, a patternhaving aerecess 13 is employed to receive the underwedge blank 15. This blank, which may be any piece of leather or other suitable material ofsuflicient' size and having one straight edge maybe used. The underwedge blank is placed in the recess 13 of the pattern with itsv straight edge in contact with the shoulder 17 and the sole blank 19 is superposed upon the underwedge blank in the manner shown in Fig. 3. The blanks and the pattern are then clamped together in the rounding machine and rounded in the manner indicated. in

the appearance shown in Fig. 4. It is next channeled or channeled and shouldered and then molded, the molding consisting in forming a break or bend across the solo in the vicinity of the heel breast line so that when the beveled underwedge, later to be described, is put in place its upper surface will be flush with the upper surface of the sole. The underwedge, after the rounding operation, has the appearance shown in Fig. 5. It is next skived or beveled along its breast edge to produce the eii'ectshown in Fig. 6.

The underwedge, as thus far described, is cemented to the heel end of the molded solo in such manner that the beveled edge lies over the break in the sole, after which a notch 21 is cut in the beveled edge, preterably by a pinking cutter, using the sole as a cutting bed, the notch being located in register with one end of the channel in the sole. The complete bottoming member is shown in Fig. 7 in which the finished sole is indicated at 190, the channel at 23, the shoulder at 25 and the finished underwedgc at 150.

The bottoming member shown in Fig. 7 is incorporated in it turned shoe by assembling it, together with an upper which is wrong side out, upon a last and sewing the upper to the sole in the manner indicated in Fig. 8. The sewing machine used for this sort of work is provided with a guide 27 which travels in the channel and is located in advance of the needle 29. It, therefore, no notch 21 or similarly located recess were provided, the stitches would end at a point spaced from the forward edge of the underwedge. The notch, however, permits the channel guide to travel into the underwedge a sullicient distance to permit the last stitch to be made close to the underwedge.

By rounding the sole and under-wedge together the edges of them which are exposed in the finished shoe may be brought into accurate alincment; and by making the notch after the underwedge has been beveled and attached to the sole not only is the skiving operation facilitated but the notch may be located in accurate register with the end of the channel.

Having thus described my invention, what .1 claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is 1. The method of preparing an article consisting of a sole and underwedge for incorporation in a shoe which comprises clamping a sole blank and an nnderwedge blank in superposed relation, rounding the blanks while so clamped before they are incorporated in the shoe and thereafter attaching the underwedge to the sole and completing the manufacture of the article.

2. The method of preparing an article consisting of a sole and underwedge for incorporation vin a shoe which comprises rounding the underwedge blank and the sole blank at a single operation, attaching the underwedge to the sole and thereafter cutting a recess in the edge of the underwedgc located in position to receive the channel guide of the sewing machine used to attach the sole to the upper of the shoe.

The method of preparing an article consisting ot a sole and under-wedge for incorpo -ation in a shoe which comprises rounding the underwedgc blank and the sole blank at a single operation, attaching the undcrwedge to the sole and tl'ierca'l'ter cutting a recess in the edge of the underwedgc, using the sole as a cutting bed.

l. The method of preparing an article consisting of a sole and underwedge for incorporation in a shoe which comprises clamping a sole blank and an underwedge blank in superposed relation, rounding the two blanks while so held, and thereafter completing the manufacture of the article including cutting a recess in the edge of the underwedge.

The method of preparing an article consisting of a sole and underwedge for incorporation in a turned shoe which comprises clamping a sole blank and an underwedge blank in superposed relation, rounding the two blanks while thus held, channeling and molding the sole, scarling one edge of the underwedge, attaching the scarfed underwedge to the heel end of the sole, and making in the scar'led edge of the underwcdge a recess adapted to receive the channel guide of the sewing machine used to attach the sole to the upper of the shoe.

6. The method of preparing an article consisting ot a sole and an underwedge for incorporation in a shoe which comprises holding a sole blank and an underwedge blank temporarily in proper superposed re lation, rounding the blanks while so held before they are incorporated in the shoe and thereafter attaching the under-wedge to the sole.

7. The method of preparing an article consisting of a sole and an underwcdge for incorporation in a turned shoe which comprises clamping a sole blank and an underwedge blank in superposed relation, rounding the two blanks while thus held, and thereafter separating the two blanks, channeling and molding the sole blank and scarfing the breast edge of the underwedge blank.

8. The method of preparing an underwedge which comprises dieing out the underwedge, rounding the underwedge, beveling the breast edge thereof and thereafter cutting in the beveled breast edge a notch spaced from the sides of the underwedge and so located that when the undcrwedge is in proper position upon a channeled sole, the notch will register with one end of the channel.

9. The method of preparing an article consisting of a sole and an underwedge for incorporation in a shoe which comprises clamping a sole blank and an underwedge blank in the superposed relation which they are to occupy in the finished shoe, rounding the blanks simultaneously while so clamped before they are incorporated in the shoe, and thereafter attaching the underwedge to the sole and completing the manufacture of the article.

10. The method of preparing an article consisting of a sole and an underwedge for incorporation in a shoe which comprises clamping a sole blank and an underwedge blank in the superposed relation which they are to occupy in the finished shoe, progressively trimming the entire sole blank and the rear and sides of the underwedge blank to the desired outline while so clamped before they are incorporated in the shoe, and thereafter attaching the underwedge to the sole and completing the manufacture of the article.

11. The method of preparing an article consisting of a sole and an underwedge for incorporation in a turned shoe which comprises clamping a sole blank and an underwedge blank in superposed relation, rounding the two blanks while thus held, channeling and molding the sole, scarfing one edge of the underwedge, and attaching the scilirfed underwedge to the heel end of the so e.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

ALFRED 'E. c. HALL. 

